MILAN – The relaxed silhouette of the Salvatore Ferragamo menswear collection for next summer seems almost to deny the traditional tailoring responsible for its creation.
Massimiliano Giornetti, who has been designing Ferragamo menswear for 14 years, defined the silhouette as light.
"It is completely deconstructed," he said backstage after the preview show Sunday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week. It is a deconstruction that doesn't seek to challenge the sartorial rules, but rather reinforce them.
As if to emphasize the fluidity of the look, the color that unites the collection is an aqueous blue-green, which matches soothingly with earthier tones of rust, gray, brown and beige.
The collection centers on sportswear, with a variety of jackets including longer overcoats, double-breasted jackets that are slightly cropped, blousons with gathered waists that function as a bomber jacket and, inventively, blazers that are belted from the inside or outside.
At times, Giornetti skews the jacket zipper or buttons just slightly to the side for a subtle asymmetrical look. For a light-hearted touch, he has lined the jackets with a giraffe pattern, visible when sleeves are rolled up, and on some matching pieces.
"I was thinking of a sentimental journey — the sound of Africa coming back and forth," Giornetti said. "But this is not an African collection."
The outfits are finished with double-pleated trousers or loose-fitting Bermudas. Emphasizing the casual nature of the collection, scarves are favored over ties.
For the traveler, Giornetti designed large totes in waxed suede with leather accents on the corners and handles. Shoes, Ferragamo's calling card, are sturdy sandals and lace-ups with solid soles and thick fringe.